Snap-on Bluepoint Ga317 Valve Spring Compressor Remover Tool
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Welcome to the The Garage Journal Board forums.You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please,!If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact. For keeping the valves seated and not dropping, I like to put some soft nylon rope in the cylinder, but you can also use a compression tester hose to fill the cylinder with air.as for a tool, there's one you can get for about 40 bucks from snap-on, it's an AWESOME little tool.works frickin' awesome, no need for levers and such.It's a Blue-Point GA317, Small Valve Keeper Remover and Installer.here's another one:here's a link to the PDF:here's another thread where the first image is also posted. Actually a write-up on replacing the valve seals on a toyota 4AGE engine (not my engine, although I've got one):$39.05 plus shipping. Maybe less, maybe more, if you can find a Snap-on truck around.I started to make my own tool, to do the lever-action style of removal, but this one just works SO freakin' good. Install AND uninstall, hassle-free!I just got done using it on my 4AGE last weekend, upgrading my valve springs for the new cams I'm putting in.
No need to use a hammer like the pic on the box shows. The valve springs on DOHC engines are generally WAY softer than those on pushrod single-cam engines. I think the seat pressure on the Toyota engine I just did was 30lbs. About 45 minutes, and I had all 16 valvesprings changed out.-sarge. As for a tool, there's one you can get for about 40 bucks from snap-on, it's an AWESOME little tool.I have this same tool and have used it successfully.A warning with this tool.There was a GM service bulletin about using this tool.When the tool drives the valve spring retainer down, it is possible for the retainer to tilt or shift and hit end of the valve stem. This can cause a nick in the valve stem that can cause damage to the valve stem seal.
Vintage Snap-On Tools Inc. VL-30 and Blue-Point CF-49 valve spring compressors Condition: Both are in used working condition Both have some minor surface rust No cracks, breaks or repairs to either compressor Ships very nicely in a USPS Priority Mail Medium Flat Rate Box Thank you for looking Please Check out my other items! Blue Point Tool. We offer a plethora of Blue Point Tool for your vehicle needs. Vintage Blue Point Valve Spring Compressor Cl-1 Tool Usa. View Details. Blue Point By Snap On Tools Specialty Thin Offset Open End 1-12 Wrench S-9463. View Details. Blue Point 10pc File Set Tool Control Foam Incl Vat. As Sold By Snap On.
This can cause the engine to burn oil.A compression tester adapter makes a good air holding tool, but the schrader valve should be removed. I have this same tool and have used it successfully.A warning with this tool.There was a GM service bulletin about using this tool.When the tool drives the valve spring retainer down, it is possible for the retainer to tilt or shift and hit end of the valve stem. This can cause a nick in the valve stem that can cause damage to the valve stem seal. This can cause the engine to burn oil.A compression tester adapter makes a good air holding tool, but the schrader valve should be removed.Schraeder valve removal a definite must.
Won't work otherwise. My fairly inexpensive compressioin tester actually had a regular Type M fitting on it, made it a breeze to use for keeping the valves up.Nice note on the GM warning. I can see how that could happen if one isn't careful. That's another reason why I'll keep doing it by hand, rather than using a sharp impact of a hammer or such.I'd also note to BE SURE your keepers are seated properly, you can hear them click when pushing the tool down.
After a few, you get the feel of it, and know if it's perfectly in, or if one side might not be all the way. A valve keeper can fly pretty darned far, and you could damage an eye or just lose the keeper somewhere.And, to the OP: yes, this tool will remove AND install the valve retainers/keepers, no need for a different hold down device. Also, depending on what engine you have, that 'universal' compressor won't actually fit on all heads. The 4AGE specifically was too small. For the mounting feet, so the tool wouldve needed to be modified somehow.
I started to make my own, then stopped when I found the Bluepoint.-sarge. It's a Blue-Point GA317, Small Valve Keeper Remover and Installer.-sargeI just ordered the slightly larger 318 Blue point one yesterday from my Snap-On Man to put valve seals in my Willys Jeep. I should have it on Tuesday. It is less expensive from Lisle but no one seems to have one.The videos were so impressive that I just had to have one.Has anyone here had the nicking the valve stem issue?
Sometimes I wonder if things like this are from techs using the tool improperly, or hurriedly.Chris. Finally put this to the test.I had to fiddle around for a few minutes before I realized the best way of removing the locks was to use the silver part of the tool only.
I guess that's why it separates.Once I figured that out, it was easy.We'll see how it goes when it's time to reinstall.I had exactly the same experience with the Lisle variety (almost identical tool). It made light work of removing the valve collets. I also have not tried the re-install. This tool works so much better than a traditional valve spring compressor. I have the G shaped and a Clamp type (that hooks onto the spring itself). They were both pretty hard going and not really all that useful for my twincam head. The 'tap and catch' style works so well.
The magnet grabs the collets as the spring compresses. Works with a light tap at most. This interests me, but I have to wonder how universally applicable it is.
For $50, it oughta work on everything!I bought one of these for the Subaru SOHC heads (which are roller-rocker) and it works great:However, it won't work at all for the SUBARU DOHC heads since they use a bucket design and the top of the valve (and therefore the retainer) is buried way the hell down in the head. I can't find any 'clamp style' valve spring compressor that can reach down into the Subaru DOHC heads. You can see the holes the valve stems hide down in on the DOHC heads. I used the same spring compressor as in williaty's post for a DOHC Volvo 2.9 I6.I used a 2' long section of PVC pipe which had a diameter to fit over the retainer.
I cut a 'window' cut in the side of the pipe to be able to remove the retainers with a small magenetized screwdriver.It was a bit cumbersome for a 24 valve motor but I tell you what, by the time i removed valve 14 or so I was a proThis method would work on any deep bucket style cylinder head like the modern Subies or Volvos.OmerHere's an adapter to allow C-type Spring compressors to access deep spring wells. Similar to your trick.They sell 2 sizes but pricey unless you do a lot of heads.They just clip into the forks and stay there.10 years ago KD sold #3388 and 3389 Valve spring compressor adapters in 27mm and 32mm that were much less expensive and look identical, white plastic. I guess they've discontinued them.They are worth searching for though.Rob.
I used the same spring compressor as in williaty's post for a DOHC Volvo 2.9 I6.I used a 2' long section of PVC pipe which had a diameter to fit over the retainer. I cut a 'window' cut in the side of the pipe to be able to remove the retainers with a small magenetized screwdriver.It was a bit cumbersome for a 24 valve motor but I tell you what, by the time i removed valve 14 or so I was a proThis method would work on any deep bucket style cylinder head like the modern Subies or Volvos.OmerThis method works for me. Only instead of PVC pipe I use a proper sized socket with an extendable magnet wand down the center. And I never use hammers, to scary.
Instead I take a pair of lock pliers and loop them around the magnet wand and on top of the socket. With that I have enough leverage to force it.I don't own any type of special tool for the job so I don't really know how it compares. But it's never failed me and I don't see a need to spend extra cash.The compressed air trick sounds interesting though.
Snap-on Bluepoint Ga317 Valve Spring Compressor Remover Tool Kit
I've used nylon rope to jam the cylinder up before. If you use air how much pressure should you put in there? I guess it would depend on the size, but what's a general amount?